By Editorial Team
In a city as food-forward and fiercely competitive as Petaling Jaya, it takes more than good plating and prettier lighting to stand out. At Meraki Dining, it’s not just about serving a meal — it’s about serving intention.
The word meraki means to do something with soul, creativity, and love. And here, that philosophy isn’t framed on a wall — it’s simmering in the kitchen, argued over passionately, tweaked, tested, scrapped, and reborn before it reaches your table.
Meraki’s story began long before the brick-and-mortar space. Executive Chef Malcolm and his team — including Chefs LT, Kumar, and Isaac — were already making waves in the private dining scene. What started as intimate dinners in homes evolved into corporate tastings for names like HSBC and UOB, where Malaysian flavours were presented to diplomats and dignitaries.
When the world slowed down during the pandemic, their passion project found clarity. Instead of keeping things exclusive, they decided to build a space rooted in community dining — think long tables, shared plates, and flavours that spark conversation.
No alcohol. No distractions. Just food that does the talking.
If there’s one word to describe the food at Meraki, it’s unexpectedly familiar. You think you know what’s coming — and then it gently surprises you.
First served was the Otak Toast. Made with 100% tiger prawn meat and seasoned with local spices, this is not your kopitiam prawn toast. It’s crisp on the outside, plush within, and boldly aromatic. The chefs originally had one version. Now? There are three variations in rotation — a testament to Meraki’s constantly evolving menu philosophy. If diners love something, it grows. If it needs refining, it goes back to the kitchen laboratory.
Next was the Lux Fried Chew Kuih. At first glance, it’s nostalgia on a plate. Chew kuih — that humble steamed rice cake — but supersized, crisped and elevated. Here, a single large steamed rice cake is deepfried to achieve a caramelised char while keeping its centre mellow and yielding. It’s topped with seared Canadian scallops and a remix of Peranakan choy poh that’s lifted with bunga kantan and kaffir lime leaves. The result? Salty-sweet crunch meets citrusy perfume, with sambal threading it all together. It’s street food that went to finishing school — but didn’t forget its roots.
Proof that vegetables can steal the show, the Nappa Cabbage with Melted Ulam Béarnaise is a must have. The cabbage is seared and roasted until its natural sugars bloom, then brushed with melted ulam béarnaise and browned butter. There’s a slight bitterness that keeps things interesting, balanced by a quiet sweetness coaxed out through careful cooking. It’s simple, deceptively so, and deeply satisfying.
Hopping into the mains or sharing platters, Pak Aizat’s Portuguese Fish was dished out first. Barramundi meets Peranakan sambal in a dish that feels coastal and comforting. The warm salad of fried okra and ikan bilis adds crunch and umami depth, grounding the plate in unmistakably Malaysian territory. It’s bold, but never overwhelming — the kind of dish that makes you instinctively reach across the table and say, “You have to try this.”
The Lamb Shoulder with Harissa & Assam Boi Greek Yogurt that came next was probably my favourite. Here’s where Meraki flexes its contemporary Asian identity. The lamb shoulder, perfumed with harissa, is rich and tender. But it’s the assam boi Greek yogurt that seals the deal — tangy, slightly nostalgic, and refreshingly unexpected. It cuts through the richness with a playful acidity that feels both Middle Eastern and unmistakably local.
Finally, the light, refreshing, and quietly complex Chilled Somen & Scallops was presented. Chilled somen noodles are paired with scallops, ulam tempura, Asian ponzu, watermelon, and toasted sesame seeds. It’s textural and layered — crispy, juicy, silky — and perfect for Malaysia’s perpetual summer.
Behind the scenes, Meraki feels less like a brigade and more like a band. The front of house helps in the kitchen. Chefs carry plates out and explain the dishes themselves. There’s no rigid hierarchy, just a shared obsession with getting it right. Arguments happen (often, by their own admission), but always in pursuit of a better plate.
Menus change quarterly. Dishes evolve. Some are retired. Others return, improved. On select evenings, diners can even meet the chefs upstairs for intimate tasting sessions featuring off-menu creations — a testing ground where feedback directly shapes future offerings. It’s experimental. A little “cowboy,” as one team member laughs. But it works.
Meraki’s roots in private dining still show in its communal spirit. Food is often served to share, as a grandmother’s table reimagined. It’s less about rigid three-course structures and more about connection — about tasting, passing, discussing.
The long-term vision? To grow thoughtfully. To remain a neighbourhood restaurant for PJ, but one that quietly reaches further — through bottled sambals, artisanal goods, and perhaps new branches down the line.
But above all, the goal is simple. That you leave with a memorable dinner. That your pocket doesn’t feel attacked. And that you want to come back.
In a city bursting with culinary stars, Meraki Dining doesn’t shout the loudest. It simply cooks — with intention, with integrity, and with just enough mischief to keep things exciting.
Meraki Dining is located on the ground floor, 22A, Jalan 17/54, Section 17, Petaling Jaya. To make a reservation, call 03-7499 3516. Meraki Dining is also a merchant on T Privilege. Please sign up on the T360 app and start earning rewards today!
Malaysia