Upgrade your custom electronics with our 3.5mm Stereo Chassis Socket, the ideal solution for permanent panel-mount audio interfaces. This high-quality female jack is engineered for stability and ease of installation in amplifiers, DIY synthesizers, pedalboards, and various electronic project enclosures. Available in both standard open-frame and enclosed designs, it provides a clean, professional finish for any audio project.
Secure Panel Mounting: Equipped with a threaded nose and a knurled metal fastening nut to ensure a tight, flush fit on any chassis or faceplate.
Standard TRS Stereo Design: Features three dedicated terminals—Tip (Left), Ring (Right), and Sleeve (Ground)—for full stereo signal transmission.
Durable Construction: Built with high-impact plastic housing that provides excellent electrical insulation from the mounting panel.
Reliable Solder Terminals: Includes sturdy solder tabs designed for secure wire termination and long-term signal integrity.
Tactile "Click-Lock" Connection: Internal spring-tension contacts provide a firm grip on standard 3.5mm plugs, preventing accidental disconnections.
DIY & Repair Essential: A versatile component for repairing broken headphone jacks on equipment or for use in original electronic builds.
Signal Isolation: The non-conductive body helps prevent unwanted ground loops when mounting to metal enclosures.
Industrial Aesthetics: Offers a streamlined, factory-quality look for all your custom audio interfaces.
Connector Type: 3.5mm (1/8 inch) Stereo Female (TRS).
Mounting Style: Chassis / Panel Mount.
What drill bit size is required for installation?
These sockets typically require a 6mm to 6.5mm mounting hole for the threaded nose to pass through the panel.
Can this be used for mono applications?
Yes. For a mono signal, you would simply connect your signal to the Tip terminal and leave the Ring terminal unconnected or shorted to ground, depending on your circuit.
Is the nut easy to strip?
Our knurled metal nuts are designed for durability; however, we recommend finger-tightening followed by a light turn with a wrench or pliers to avoid over-torquing.
