Reliability starts at the source. Our 3-Pin XLR Female Connector is the essential component for building or repairing high-quality, balanced audio cables. Designed to provide a secure, noise-free connection to microphones, mixers, and stage equipment, this solder-type connector is the go-to choice for studio engineers and live sound technicians alike.
Microphone Inputs: The universal socket end for handheld, studio condenser, and shotgun microphones.
Balanced Audio Leads: Ideal for interconnecting studio outboard gear, preamps, and interfaces.
Powered Speaker Cables: Ensures a clean, balanced signal to active monitors and PA systems.
DMX Lighting: Compatible with 3-pin DMX controllers and lighting fixtures for stage effects.
Secure Push-Lock Latch: Features a high-tension metal button that "clicks" into place, preventing accidental disconnects during a performance.
Balanced Signal Integrity: Standard 3-pin internal layout (Ground, Hot, Cold) for maximum noise and hum rejection.
Rugged Zinc Alloy Housing: A durable, die-cast metal shell that protects your internal solder joints from physical impact.
Tapered Strain Relief: The flexible rubber boot minimizes cable stress and prevents fraying at the entry point.
High Conductivity: Silver-plated copper contacts provide a crystal-clear signal with zero loss in audio quality.
Fast & Easy Assembly: Features deep, well-spaced solder buckets that make DIY wiring a breeze, even for beginners.
Precision Fit: Manufactured to international standards to ensure a perfect, wiggle-free fit with any 3-pin male XLR port.
Type: XLR Female (Cable End)
Termination: Solder-on
Which end of the cable is this?
In a standard setup, the Female connector plugs into the Microphone, while the Male connector plugs into the Mixer or Audio Interface.
Will the plastic melt while I solder?
No. Our connectors use high-grade, heat-resistant insulators that keep the pins perfectly aligned even during soldering.
Do I need any special tools?
You will need a soldering iron and solder wire. If your cable is broken right at the end, you can usually just cut off the old connector and solder this new one on in minutes.
